August
2005
You may be
surprised. See the chart at
http://www.certifiedorganic.bc.ca/rcbtoa/services/corporate-ownership.html
excerpt:
"The
natural-food movement is being bought up by Phillip
Morris and
H.J. Heinz and
Jimmy Dean."
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Grist: What are some
companies that you think are successfully
forging new, sustainable
corporate practices?
Hawken: Hmm ... uh, well
... there aren't too many, and people don't
know them so well.
Hartmann in Denmark, they do molded-fiber
packaging. Uh, let's see.
Natura in Brazil is a cosmetic company that
works very closely with
indigenous people and farmers in Brazil. It
works with poor people to
develop cash crops that are productive and
sustainable for their
cultures. Novo Nordisk, they do a lot of work
with enzymes that save
energy and eliminate chemical use. There's
Plambeck in Germany that
does great wind parks. STMicroelectronics is
a company doing very
interesting stuff with a new solar photovoltaic
technology that could make
solar energy cheaper than all other forms
of electricity. Svenska
Cellulosa is doing some great things with
respect to sustainable
forestry. Vestas, the big wind company in
Denmark. Easto, a large
organic produce company in Europe which does
a lot of biodynamic stuff.
And of course there is ShoreBank, the
enterprise work that
Ecotrust is doing, Patagonia, Cooperative Bank
in England, and
more.
Grist: So it doesn't sound
like there are many companies in America
that you're excited about.
Can you compare some of these European
companies to American
companies? For instance, can you elaborate on
why, say, Whole Foods
doesn't strike you as an example of a good
company?
Hawken: Whole Foods
dismantles local food webs and doesn't foster
what the organic movement
is about. The organic and natural-food
movement that I helped
kick off in the late '60s was the beginning of
recreating regional food
webs. Local stores started all around the
country and they began to
source locally, and whatever they couldn't
get locally they got
regionally, and whatever they couldn't get
regionally they got
nationally. In terms of produce and bakery goods
and other food items,
there was a huge diversity of suppliers in the
United States because
there was a huge diversity of stores. Whole
Foods went in and bought
out the bigger, more successful stores and
then rebranded them and
did centralized purchasing for produce, which
now comes from Chile and
New Zealand and places like that. In the
process, many local
organic producers went out of business. Massive
scale and centralization
of power and capital is the antithesis of
what we had in mind when
we started the natural and organic-food
business in the
U.S.
Grist: But does that
totally discredit the positive things they are
doing?
Hawken: Good deeds don't
erase bad outcomes. But let's talk about the
positive things they are
doing.
Grist: Well, let's say
they use recycled packaging and keep
pesticides out of the
soil. Isn't large-scale organic farming better
than non-organic factory
farms?
Hawken: Yes, but still
it's large-scale agribusiness.
Grist: But they're better
than Safeway.
Hawken: They are guided by
profit. So are small companies. So far so
good. But when a company
gets large and dominant, the same instincts
to survive and prosper can
become unintentionally harmful. The
natural-food movement is
being bought up by Phillip Morris and H.J.
Heinz and Jimmy Dean. That
dog won't hunt. It leads to a lowering of
standards, and emphasis on
price as opposed to cost. It leads to
uniformity, power,
concentration, and control. Luckily, there's a
slow food movement in the
U.S. and lots of things happening that
counter
that.
Grist: And I guess what's
more troubling is that Whole Foods can get
away with it more easily
than Safeway because everybody thinks of
them as green. The
branding is so powerful that nobody thinks to
question
it.
Hawken: To me the company
that is exemplary is the New Seasons Market
in Portland, Ore. They buy
everything they can locally. These are
real community food stores
with wonderful food and fresh produce and
fish. They know the
purveyors, they talk about them. They really feed
and enhance the local food
web of Oregon and southern Washington and
Northern California. They
are to me your model of what a grocery
store can do to help
farmers and citizens and communities. And
they're price-competitive.
I asked them why they didn't come to the
Bay area [where I
live] and they said, "No! We're
local!"
Grist: So how could we
push this model nationally? Can we introduce
federal-level
incentives?
Hawken: Not really -- it's
about culture and community. Anyone can do
a New Seasons if they are
in a community that wants it. And the
people who started it --
they have the DNA, they understand what it
means to be socially and
culturally responsible.